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Briard info |
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Do You Really Want a Briard?
Behavioral development of a puppy
Puppy Sales Agreements
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Briards and Kids
Getting peak performance out of your
Briard
Show Dog? American and French Championship
requirements.... |
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Do You Really Want a
Briard? |
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By Kathryn Lanam.
Many people are attracted to the physical beauty,
athleticism, expressive ears and eyes and the great character
and temperament of the Briard, but the breed is not the right
match for everyone. There a few good reasons why the breed is
fairly uncommon in North America, with only 40-50 litters
registered with the AKC each year.
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Temperament
In spite of
being loyal, intelligent companions, the Briard requires an
equally intelligent, committed owner. Briards were bred to both
guard and move large flocks of sheep and have retained the
instincts, attributes and keen desire for that work. If
unsocialized and/or untrained, the breed can become unsociable
and overprotective of its family and property. Shepherds value
the character traits of the Briard but these must be modified to
live in modern times of close neighbors, busy lifestyles and
lawsuits. The AKC Standard states that the Briard is " a dog of
heart, with spirit and initiative, wise and fearless with no
trace of timidity. Intelligent, easily trained, faithful,
gentle, and obedient, the Briard possesses an excellent memory
and an ardent desire to please his master. He retains a high
degree of his ancestral instinct to guard home and master.
Although he is reserved with strangers, he is loving and loyal
to those he knows. Some will display a certain independence."
(See entire Briard standard at www.briardclubofamerica.org)
There are many differences in the temperament of
Briards within the same litter, within the same line of dogs and
between different lines. Temperaments today are almost all more
sociable, less independent, and easier to blend with modern
society, usually busy and urban. Some breeders have bred for a
very docile dog that almost anyone can raise and own; others
want to retain the working qualities and character of the breed.
A good breeder will match the right puppy to the right buyer
based on their experience with Briards or similar breeds, with
their lifestyles, with their needs for a working, performance or
show dog and most importantly, with the temperament that will
fit in with their life. A good breeder will be upfront about the
temperaments of their dogs and the puppies they have available
and will refuse to sell to those homes not suited to the breed.
Although Briards usually have high prey drive
(necessary to be a good herding dog), this trait can be modified
with socialization and training so that they can live
successfully with other dogs, cats, other pets and active
children. Although Briards can be dominant, pushy dogs (needed
to control stock), they can be persuaded to his proper place in
your family, becoming a wonderful companion and friend. If you are considering an older or a Rescue
Briard, there are many possibilities. You may be getting an
excellent quality well socialized adult or older puppy from a
breeder who has decided that the dog doesn't fit in their
breeding program, doesn't fit in with their present "pack" of
dogs, or isn't happy with the hips or conformation. You may also
be looking at a older puppy that the "breeder" couldn't sell,
got back from a less-than-perfect home, or never got around to
socializing well enough for the show ring. Rescue dogs may come
from great homes in which the owner died, became ill or had
other significant life changes.. Rescue dogs may also be just
that - rescued form undesirable places such as dog pounds,
backyard breeders or from bad homes. An older dog not only has
the character and temperament traits that it was born with, but
also a whole package of behaviors - good and bad- that it
acquired in its previous home. Some of these will be easy to
modify to your lifestyle; others will be more difficult or
impossible, requiring a lot of patience, time and maybe, even
professional help. We would like to think that all Briards are
salvageable and make good pets, but unfortunately that may not
be realistic. There are many advantages to an older Briard - it
may already be housetrained, past its chewing stage, obedience
trained and more settled and docile. It can be a very rewarding
experience to give a needy Briard a new home.
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Socialization
As with all
breeds, Briards must be properly raised and socialized to live
as family pets. But like many herding breeds, the socialization
process must be intensive and ongoing, often until 3 or 4 years
of age. The breed can be sound sensitive (They are often said to
have the most acute hearing ability of any breed), can guard and
protect inappropriately, and may be dominant over other dogs and
their family. Even if socialized and trained correctly some
(especially unneutered males) may appear to be dog aggressive,
when in truth, they play well with other dogs off-leash, but
have been permitted to guard their owners, property or
possessions from an approaching dog. Many Briards, otherwise
well raised, become too bonded to their owner and develop
separation anxiety and/or other behavioral problems.
The Briard is probably not the breed for you if
you lack leadership skills, believe in giving in to every wish
and desire of your pets or don't have the time, energy or
commitment to bring out the best in a new Briard puppy.
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Housing
Briards thrive
on human companionship and want to be with their owners at all
times. They must be raised in the house and continue to live
inside with their new family. If you want a part-time pet, an
outside dog or an addition to your kennel, this is the wrong
breed. If you want to be accompanied to the shower, want to take
your dog in the car, want a dog to sleep in or beside your bed
and don't mind your dog touching you a lot, then maybe you want
a Briard.
Although not tending to wander very far from its
people, Briards left outside alone will use their natural
instincts and develop bad habits to chase other animals, protect
their property from real or imagined threats, and bark; as well
as risk injury from cars, other dogs and angry neighbors.
Briards make excellent house dogs, housebreaking easily and
adopting other good household manners, but most breeders
recommend early crate training to prevent injury to the puppy or
your property. In spite of their larger size, they do not eat or
need large quantities of food or need special diets. Well
socialized Briards are rarely ever excessive barkers, although
are very quick to indicate or warn off "intruders".
When presented with a person or thing that
worries the owner, and thus the dog, Briards get between that
problem and its person, constantly moving to maintain that
protective positioning. Biting should never be their choice of
defense, but two big paws strategically placed on the shoulders
of the unwelcome guest usually takes care of the problem.
Conversely, Briards are also excellent outdoors
companions. They are excellent herding dogs for both chores on
the home farm or for trial competitions. They love agility,
tracking, and other dog sports. If exposed to water as a puppy,
Briards are enthusiastic, efficient swimmers and even can excel
at field and game activities. Many Briarders enjoy boating and
sailing with their dogs. Others run/jog, hike, camp and
participate in outdoor sports such as skijoring and carting.
Although Americans haven't taken advantage of the many instincts
and talents of the breed for use in Search and Rescue, Briards
have excelled in these areas in many parts of Europe.
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Coat Care
Much of the
breed's appeal is its long beautiful coat, but the care needed
to grow and maintain the hair is not for everyone. Depending on
the type of coat (texture, thickness, etc), a Briard in full
coat will take 2-3 hours of brushing per week. Some find it
easier to brush 15 minutes every day while others will groom
once weekly. Neglecting this routine will result in very long
de-matting sessions or even the need to shave down the dog. And
in most Briards, even more time is needed for grooming during
the period of coat change (9 months - 2 ½ yrs). Breeders with
several dogs or those working the breed in the fields everyday
will keep some of their dogs cut shorter out of necessity, but
the new buyer is encouraged to choose another similar breed if
they want a short haired dog - the coat is part of the package,
good and bad.
On the positive side, other than regular
brushing, the Briard requires very little additional grooming or
the need for professional grooming (unlike a Bichon or a
Poodle.) Nail trimming, light ear cleaning, and an occasional
neatening of the feet completes the job. And as a reward for
regular brushing, most Briards shed very little. The loose coat
is caught in the courser guard hairs (forming mats), instead of
flying all over your house or clinging to your own clothes.
There are other negatives to owning a long haired
breed. Many can't seem to get a drink without getting their
entire beard soaking wet- then dripping it all over the floor-
and then lying their head in your lap. BTW, unless extremely
stressed, Briards do not drool - the wet beard is a product of
their water bowl. Big hairy feet bring in a tremendous amount of
the outdoors (good reason for keeping those paws trimmed)
including mud, snow, water, leaves, and mulch. In most parts of
the country, white carpets and fastidious housekeepers are not a
good match for the breed. Many people with dog allergies can
tolerate Briard hair, but the coat does collect pollen and other
allergens, and some Briards will develop mildewed beards if not
rinsed and dried regularly.
In addition to grooming, there is some effort and
dedication to getting the ears to stand on a cropped Briard
puppy.
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Size
Although not
considered to be a giant breed, the Briard is a large dog.
Females should be 22-25 ½ inches tall at the withers (top of the
shoulder blades) and males should be 23- 27 inches (AKC
Standard), with many males at or over the recommended top
height. The amount of bone (density and size) and body varies
but most are medium to moderately heavy boned and have big
heads. The coat and proud, outgoing personality of the breed
makes them seem even bigger, especially as energetic,
enthusiastic puppies. Their desire to be with their people can
place them in positions to accidentally step on, bump into, trip
or knock over a small child or elderly person (or occasionally a
full grown adult when true Briard enthusiasm hits.)Briards will
herd sheep by slamming their bodies and/or big heads into the
sheep, and they will sometimes attempt these moves on their
human flock.
Controlling and re-directing excessive bouncing
and/or jumping up is usually part of the necessary training of
any young dog, but 50-100 pounds of moving Briard can be
daunting. |
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Unlike many large breeds that are in constant
motion and/or require a lot of exercise, the Briard can
successfully and happily live in apartments or small houses.
Their tails are usually less destructive than some, but many use
their front paws to open things, communicate with their owners
and "autograph" your legs.
Expense
Briards are not
cheap to buy, and the initial cost is just a small
part of the expense of getting and raising a puppy, especially
during the first year. You may have fly or drive long distances
to pick up your puppy or have the puppy shipped to you. A series
of vaccinations and vet checks, food, crates, grooming supplies,
training classes or lessons, spay or neutering, health checks
(hip x-rays, eye exams, etc) and maybe even professional
grooming for some are all part of the expense. The Briard is
generally a very healthy breed but, like most other large
breeds, can have problems with hip dysplasia, other orthopedic
disease, hypothyroidism and gastric torsion/bloat. A few Briard
breeders recommend preventative stomach tacking (usually while
being spayed or neutered) to reduce the chance of a large vet
bill for emergency surgery. Other than two eye diseases (CSNB
and CPRA), which are both uncommon, there are no diseases
specific to Briards. Their health problems are those seen in
other large breeds or in all dog breeds.
If you are wanting a puppy to show, you will need
handling classes, more grooming equipment and supplies, a big
traveling budget, entry fees and maybe expenses for professional
handlers. Briards are a good choice of breed for newcomers to
showing. A well groomed, well socialized Briard can be owner
handled to its Championship, even if of average quality. In some
parts of the country, Briard entries and points are hard to
find, but luckily, it doesn't take many Briards to make even
major entries.
A large part of your new dog expense may be all
the long distance charges to talk to your breeder and talk to
your new Briard friends. You may find yourself purchasing a new
vehicle to drive the dog around, getting involved in the variety
of dog sports available today (obedience, agility, tracking,
herding, flyball- just to name a few), driving long distances to
Briard specialty shows or fun day events, and shopping a lot for
Briard artwork, T-shirts, jewelry and other treasures. Some
people have gone so far as to buy their Briard SHEEP (and the
land to go with it.)
Resources
Unless you read
French, there is little original material about the Briard. "The
Briard" by Diane McLeroth is the only full size book available
in English, covering much about the breed standard, history of
the breed and herding, but not much practical information for
newcomers to the breed. "Briards" by Alice Bixler Clark is a
short paperback book, with much of the contents generic in
nature. The Dewclaw, the official magazine of the Briard Club of
America is part of the membership benefits of the club, or can
be subscribed to separately by contacting the BCA. Other smaller
magazines available are the Briard Monthly Jounal and the
newsletters of the regional Briard clubs. A video of the breed
is available from the AKC or most online bookstores. There are
several Briard internet lists, your breeder can give you more
information.
Unlike more popular breeds, it will often be
difficult to buy a Briard near your home.. Thankfully, you will
not be able to buy a Briard from a pet shop or commercial
breeder/dog broker. You will seldom see an ad in the newspaper
for Briards, although some responsible breeders do occasionally
use this method of advertising a litter. You may have to
purchase a puppy without ever meeting your breeder or the
parents of the puppy. Much of your education and help from the
breeder and other Briarders will be via the telephone or
computer.
Visit dog shows to see Briards and meet Briarders,
although, with few exceptions, entries are small at most show.
Join a Regional Briard Club and/or the Briard Club of America.
Be sure to attend the National Specialty each year (even before
you purchase a puppy) - a week long event with a wide array of
fun and educational activities for all Briards and Briard
people. Learning more about Briards and getting help and
education about the breed is much more difficult than with more
popular breeds, but the efforts can be very rewarding - meeting
new friends, having a lot of fun and being better prepared to
make an important decision about purchasing (or not) a new
Briard puppy. Well, if you haven't quit reading this article by
now or haven't become convinced that we don't really want to
sell you a Briard, then maybe you really ARE interested in a
Briard. It isn't a breed for everyone; it does take a big
commitment to raise and groom one correctly; you definitely
won't get rich or find it easy to breed and sell puppies; BUT
for the right person or family, a Briard will be 10-12 years of
enjoyment, companionship, challenge and love. Most owners become
totally committed to the breed, never to look for another one.
Briards truly are "hearts wrapped in fur".
Copyright 2006 Kathryn Lanam. May not be reprinted or used in
its entirety or any part without the express permission of the
author.
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BRIARDS AND KIDS |
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By
Kathryn Lanam
Originally printed in the American Kennel Club Gazette
June 2002 issue
One of the most frequently asked questions by
potential Briard buyers is - Are they good with kids? Some
breeders refuse to sell to homes with children, others have a
minimum age, and others make decisions on an individual basis,
often after meeting the entire family. Briards remain very close
to their roots as a herding/guardian dog. The traits that make
them excellent pastoral dogs also make them wonderful family
pets. These same traits can also lead to behavioral problems,
including inappropriate interactions with children, when in the
wrong home. The breed requires intensive socialization to be
part of a busy family, in a busy environment, especially in
these lawsuit-crazy times. Behaviors needed and/or tolerated in
a working shepherd dog aren't the same needed for a "good
citizen". |
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There's good reason why Briards aren't more
popular - they are not a breed for everyone. BUT in the right
home, with or without children, the Briard is a wonderful
companion. The protectiveness needed to guard the flock is
transferred to the Briard's family and property. Intruders or
uninvited guests are not made welcome. Children or even adults
with "gentler" natures are guarded and protected, in absence of
a flock of sheep. Some Briards thought to be dog aggressive are
actually protecting the space around their person. Briards have
very deep bonds with humans and allowing or encouraging this
guardiness must be avoided. Even exceptionally well socialized,
well trained dogs have been known to prevent parents from
spanking their children, to refuse to allow strangers to
approach a child, and to misinterpret some types of play between
children as too rough. Fences are not needed to keep a child in
a safe area when its Briard is around.
A Briard must understand its place in the pecking
order of a family. Dominance issues are frequent problems with
herding/guardian breeds. The dog rarely sees a child as someone
in charge- they readily read social interactions between parent
and child and even between spouses. Children are treated like
sheep that need controlled and protected and/or treated like
another puppy. Play can include inappropriate games such as
tug-a-war, chasing, biting, wrestling and rough herding of the
child. Children must be taught to avoid all such types of play,
puppies must be supervised and trained and the two species need
to be separated at times for the protection of both the puppy
and the child.
In the right hands, Briards can be trained to
accept all members of the family as leaders, not pack members or
sheep. A breeder who refuses to sell a Briard to a home with
children is going to lose some very good homes for their
puppies.
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As in all puppy placements, a breeder should
carefully interview prospective buyers, check their references,
visit the home if possible, and make sure the new owners have
the time, energy, skills, resources and attitude to raise an
independent, active, intelligent puppy. Meeting the children is
often the deciding factor - if you don't like the way they have
been raised, you're probably won't like how the puppy will be
raised.
Briards and kids in the right home are a great
combination. There are many second and third generation
Briarders now, having spent their entire lives with the breed.
Several teens have had successful Junior Showmanship careers
with Briards, even earning the trip to
Westminster. Parents have wonderful stories and pictures of
their Briards loving, protecting, and guiding their children
through life. Like any breed, Briards should be in the right
home with the right people, and breeders must do all they can to
choose these homes for their puppies. |
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Copyright
2006 Kathryn Lanam. May not be reprinted or used in its entirety
or any part without the express permission of the author.
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Behavioral
development of a puppy |
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By Kathryn Lanam
The development of a puppy into whatever
behaviors and use the owner expects of the adult dog is a
combination of genetic selection of a large number of physical
and temperamental factors AND the social and behavioral
development of the puppy - first by its breeder the first few
weeks and then by the new owner. According to research by Scott
and Fuller 35% of a dog is genetic and 65% is management,
training, socialization, nutrition and other health care.
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Various researchers and canine behaviorists over
the last 100 years have studied puppy development in wild canids,
in the laboratory and in their clinical practices. In addition,
hundreds of thousands of breeders have raised puppies and
observed their behavioral development throughout their lives to
continually refine their puppy raising practices.
Like anything else, different theories explaining
canine behavior have evolved; but all agree that raising puppies
correctly is mandatory if we are to maximize the potential of
each puppy - stimulating its learning ability, interests and
natural instincts. "Old dogs" can "learn new tricks" but without
the benefit of a good start, it really becomes a matter of
playing catch up. And, sadly, millions of dogs are destroyed
each year by veterinarians, humane societies, etc. as a result
of inadequate training and socialization from the start.
There are several stages/periods in a puppy's
life where learning and/or socialization is maximized.
Behaviorists and researchers don't all agree on the exact age or
same influences within these stages , but all emphasize the
importance of understanding and utilizing this information to
raise the best puppies possible. Behaviorists define a sensitive
period (or critical stage) is a "point in the maturing process
when events are susceptible to leaving long-term effects" or a
period when "learning is easier and knowledge gained is stored
in the long-term memory". During sensitive periods, experiences
have major or even damaging effects on future behavior of the
dog. Transition between one period/stage to another is usually
gradual and varies from animal to animal. The term "window of
opportunity" is often used in the literature because certain
experiences need to happen (or not to happen, in some cases) at
a particular time, and if not, the "window" closes and the
potential benefits of those experiences are missed.
Pre-Natal Period
The future behavior/temperament of a puppy begins even before
birth. Many aspects of temperament are genetic; certain
temperament traits are traceable through generations of a dog
family. The selection process is complicated by the difficulty
in ascertaining whether the temperament of a potential sire or
dam is good or bad because of its genetic makeup OR the quality
of its socialization and training. Certainly, sires and dams
that reproduce their own less-than-desirable temperament traits
should not be rebred.
Most breeders believe that the dam's temperament
has more influence on the puppies than the sire's - maybe not
from genes, but from her role and presence with the puppies for
the first 6-8 weeks. A fearful, nervous or aggressive mother
(regardless of her genetic makeup) will often raise puppies with
similar problems, especially without breeder intervention.
Laboratory research has also shown that pregnant animals placed
under stress or injected with certain drugs give birth to young
that are less emotionally stable and perform less well (Fox,
1978) even when raised by other mothers that weren't stressed.
Other research showed that a pregnant animal that
is petted and caressed produce more docile puppies. According to
Dr. Fox (1975, 1978), this "activates the parasympathetic
system, facilitating relaxation, digestion and emotional
attachment". Dehasse explains this as a link to the dog's (a
social species) innate need for contact. A dog's tactile
capability actually develops before birth - the puppies become
accustomed to contact in the uterus, the mother being petted,
and even respond to petting themselves during late pregnancy.
Some research showed puppies from a petted mother had a greater
tolerance to handling than puppies from an unpetted mother.
Conclusions can be made that pregnant bitches in a friendly,
non-stressful environment with lots of physical contact will
produce puppies with a better start to life.
Neo-Natal Period
(1-14 days)
Newborn puppies are born helpless
and completely dependent on their dams, responding only to
warmth, touch and smell. Newborns cannot regulate body functions
such as temperature and elimination. They must have artificial
sources of heat - their mother, or in her absence, heating pads,
water bottles, heat lamps, etc., to maintain their body
temperature. Newborns start out with a 94-96 degree F
temperature and build to normal canine levels of 101-102 in the
next two weeks and are very susceptible to excess heat and cold.
Chilled puppies during this stage often develop infections
(herpes, etc), get pneumonia or have trouble digesting food,
leading to "colic" or other GI stress. |
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Puppies subjected to excess
temperatures can also develop medical problems, including
dehydration, dry eyes, etc and over-warm dams spend less time
with their puppies and produce less milk.. The mother must
stimulate urination and defecation by licking.
The puppies sleep 90% of the time, only waking to
suckle. Their eyes and ears are closed. There are some
vocalizations at this age, especially if hungry, laid on, or in
distress from digestive problems or infections. Paramount at
this stage is the health and happiness of the mother dog.
Too much stress at this age has a negative effect
on puppies, but research (Fox; Scott and Fuller) has shown that
newborns can respond to thermal, tactile and motor stimulation.
Mild forms of stress create many changes in newborns including
changes in electrical activity in the brain, muscle tension, and
changes in oxygen levels and breathing. When tested later as
adults, the stressed dogs were better able to withstand stress
than their non-stressed littermates. They responded to stress in
a "graded" fashion, while the non-stressed puppies responded in
an "all or nothing" way. The stressed puppies also matured
sexually earlier, were more resistant to some forms of cancer
and disease and withstood exposure to cold better.
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Articles published by Dr Carmen Battaglia report on research by
the US Military program called "Bio Sensor" or "Super Dog", also
showing that "early neurological stimulation will have important
and lasting effects" on puppies. He describes specific
stimulation exercises for day 3 through 16 of the puppies'
lives. For 3-5 seconds once per day, each puppy should be : 1.
Tickled between the toes with a Q-tip 2. Held perpendicular to
the ground 3. Held head down 4. Held on its back in the palm of
your hand and 5. Laid on a cold damp towel. These exercises
should not be a substitute for the normal handling of the
puppies by the breeder. More importantly, more is not better;
again, too much stress is detrimental. Battaglia says "kicking
the neurological system into action earlier than normal" will
benefit the puppy with improved cardiovascular, stronger heart
beats, stronger adrenal glands, more tolerance to stress and
greater resistance to disease. Puppies were also more active,
more exploratory, calmer and less distracted when working. Other
references to early stimulation tests include introducing a wide
array of smells, materials, surfaces, and putting the puppy into
a shallow metal pan and letting it crawl out. |
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Transitional Period
(14-21 days)
This period
starts when the eyes are open and ends when the puppy first
"startles" on hearing a noise. This week is characterized by the
rapid development of motor skills, the ability to eliminate on
it's own, the onset of usable vision (by 12-18 days), the
initial emergence of teeth, and the development of hearing -
first evidenced by the startle response. The puppies move around
a lot more, may start to lap liquids and will begin to leave the
nest to eliminate. Tail wagging begins and vocalizations become
more specialized. They begin to show interest in their
littermates - pawing at each other faces and chewing on each
other. This is the time to begin increased individual attention
by the breeder. Toys and other visual objects should be added to
the box and puppies should be moved to a new place or new
surface for a minute once a day (probably could coincide with
cleaning the whelping box). The mother dog will begin to spend
short periods of time away from the puppies this week.
Awareness or Identification Period (21-28 days)
By this age
sight and hearing is functioning well. A variety of noises
(music, radio, bells, vacuums, etc) and sights (change in light
level, moving objects and vibrations) should be part of their
daily life. This might be the time to move the puppies into the
kitchen or other busy part of the house. The puppy must now
learn that he is a dog; recognizing its mother (filial
imprinting), recognizing other species - specifically humans
that are part of its social relations (fraternal imprinting) and
have experiences that mean survival of the species (sexual
imprinting). |
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A poorly imprinted puppy will have problems being
a "good" dog in the future. Dehasse cites several examples,
including Scott and Fuller research, of imprinting "mistakes".
Puppies raised in isolation from dogs at this time and then
introduced to dogs at 16 weeks get attacked and rejected.
Puppies without dog contact will bond with other species, or
inanimate objects like a stuffed animal or even a vacuum cleaner
bag. The first signs of humping (imitation of sexual behavior)
begins as early as 3 weeks and can be stimulated by pressing on
the sternum or abdomen. Breeding behavior with the wrong species
may result from poor imprinting at this age. Many more examples
of imprinting could be listed.
The puppies will begin "play-fighting" during
this week, with a loose pecking order starting to form. Barking
increases. They can begin to eat puppy food this week, but the
mother should still be staying with the litter. |
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The mother will begin growling and baring her
teeth when the puppies try to nurse. The puppy will then back
off or roll over on its back in submission, and learn to keep
away from the mother's teats when told. When mothers are removed
too soon from the litter, puppies do not learn this submission
to adult dogs that can affect the puppy's integration (hierarchization)
with adult dogs. Wild canids and some dogs regurgitate
pre-digested food to their puppies as a transition between
nursing and complete weaning. Nursing can last up to 7-10 weeks
if the bitch doesn't prevent nursing. This may lead to a drain
on the bitch, continued weight loss in her and extended problems
returning her to working/show conditions. The less pushy puppies
will also gain much slower, especially if they insist on holding
out for milk and not eating food provided by the breeder. Some
bitches will never wean their puppies themselves and weaning
must be managed by the breeder. Puppies still need a very stable
environment during this time. Their humans should do a lot of
handling, cuddling and pick up the puppies regularly.
Second
Awareness/Identification Week (28-35 days)
Play behavior
becomes much more sophisticated, including growling, chasing,
and "kill" games. Distance perception is much improved. Puppies
should be eating puppy food well by now and most bitches and/or
breeders will wean the litter. More time should be spent
individually with each puppy. Observe the puppy's behavior when
taken to a strange place; put them behind a barrier and watch;
continually add new objects for them while alone. Behavioral
characteristics will begin to be very different when the puppy
is with its littermates then when it is by itself.
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Socialization Period (5 to
14-16 weeks)
Dogs are not
genetically "programmed" to interact socially with other
species, including humans, but twelve thousand years of
domestication of the dog has made this possible. Living with
people and adapting to their varied environments is only
possible through habituation - disappearance of reactions - to
certain stimuli. Many neurobiological studies have shown that
the brain becomes atrophied when a dog is raised in sensorial
isolation and it develops more than average in an environment of
hyper-stimulation. Fox (1975) found that puppies exposed to
increasingly complex stimuli- "enrichment"- would seek out
complex environments; conversely, his "stimulus-poor puppies"
were inhibited, fearful and looked for less complex
environments. Additionally the enriched puppies were dominant in
presence of stimulus-poor dogs. The dogs lacking proper stimuli
were also over-excitable, learned slower and forgot easily later
in life. And a puppy raised in a deprived environment may
compensate with self-destructive behaviors like coat chewing,
licking, etc.
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Socialization does two things to habituate the
puppy. It reduces the number of things in the world that a puppy
might be frightened of and it continually provides the
experience of first being afraid and then recovering. According
to most behaviorists, bounce-back is one of the most valuable
traits you can "teach" a dog. And the more often the puppy
recovers, the list of things/people/experiences that the puppy
is not afraid of grows faster and faster. Puppies must be
exposed to a wide array of smells, textures, surfaces, sounds,
vibrations, tastes and sights, including and especially a
comprehensive variety of people. The more chances a puppy has to
be properly exposed to something new during the critical
socialization periods, the less bothered it will be throughout
the rest of its life when confronted by other new or frightening
things. Innate fears in the canine have not been found to exist
but genetic sound sensitivity is common, especially in herding
breeds. Dogs have very acute hearing and must learn to ignore
the thousands of sounds that don't affect it and learn to
concentrate on those that impact his life. Fears are caused from
the dog's experiences in life. Everything an adult dog is
expected to do or co-exist with should be added to the
socialization program - ie children, swimming, exposure to
stock, dog shows, etc, etc, etc.. |
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Under-socialized dogs are shy, fearful, become
defensive, discriminate threats inappropriately, and may even
bite out of fear. They often will be over dependent on their
owners. If under-socialized to dogs, the puppy may be fearful or
aggressive or the other dogs may reject the puppy. When afraid,
a dog reacts in a "flight or fight" manner, trying out different
methods to deal with his fear. If unable to flee, the dog will
use increasing levels of "aggression" to first scare off the
feared person or dog and may progress to fighting or biting to
defend itself. This behavioral mechanism explains why a
frightened dog on a leash or restrained some other way reacts in
a totally different way than if free to make better decisions
about how to handle its fear, including flight - if that means
has worked for him in the past.
Socialization requires creativity and is an
ongoing process that should last the entire life of the dog.
There are many obstacles to properly socializing a puppy- their
owners work outside the home all day, dogs are unwelcome in most
public places, owners avoid exposure to other dogs to reduce the
risk of disease transmission, inexperienced owners/breeders
don't understand dog behavior, effective puppy classes and
trainers are unavailable or not deemed necessary; the owner
stops because either the older puppy is very outgoing or the
puppy is out of control by now; the list could go on and on, but
there is no substitution for intensive and ongoing
socialization. for ALL puppies. This period can be further
broken down as follows: |
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Curiosity Period (5-7 weeks)
Weaning from
the dam should be complete during this period, although the
mother will still play with and teach the puppies. The puppies
will be very curious now - wanting to climb, crawl, investigate
and taste everything. They have very little sense of fear now
and will approach and investigate anything and everything.. It's
time to add scarier people and things , including children and
strangers. Tunnels, boxes, steps, baby pools and other
challenges should be introduced. If frightened by something at
this age, the puppy will bounce back very quickly. People should
call the puppy, encourage it to follow, play with, stroke, talk
to, make eye contact with, and be picked up and held several
times a day. Some people call this the "gentling" process.
Puppies will start rudimentary housebreaking at
this time if taken outside regularly and at appropriate times,
and will even start to use a doggie door. |
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Of course this is the time for first vaccines,
ear cropping (research shows that puppies have no pain memory
prior to 7 weeks of age), trips outside the house, first baths
and grooming, table "stacking", sheep smells, and introduction
to water (especially if expected to do water activities as an
adult). The start to learning bite inhibition is very important
during this period, both with littermates and with the human
family. Clicker training and other food motivation/rewards can
be introduced now. Important to note is that studies show that
puppies removed from the litter before the end of the 6th week
will always have problems with dog-dog relationships.
Many observations can now be made about the
temperament of each puppy. Breeders who spend a lot of time with
their puppies, both together and individually, and provide an
interesting, challenging environment for them usually "know"
them well by now and are ready to temperamentally match each
puppy to its new owner. Others will use some type of formal
temperament testing at 6, 7 and/or 8 weeks of age to further
access each puppy. Obedience, agility, schutzhund and other
working/performance enthusiasts are particularly interested in
being able to predict future success in these one or more of
these areas. Some use the Puppy Aptitude Test, developed by the
Volhards (and based on research by William Campbell). This is a
set of tests that include Social Attraction, Following,
Restraint, Social Dominance and Elevation Dominance and
additional obedience tests including Retrieving and Touch, Sight
and Sound Sensitivity. Trainer Sheila Booth has also developed a
test called "Positive Puppy Preview" which evaluates drive,
persistence, focus, distractibility, food motivation,
bounce-back from stress, willingness to work with a human, level
of forgiveness and ego strength. Several other variations of
these tests exist but all are used to evaluate the puppy's
potential for working and aid in the placement of the puppy in
the right home. The results of testing will usually mirror the
opinions and observation of an experienced breeder.
Picking/placing the right puppy is the hope that we can
"visualize" what it will be as an adult and how it will fit into
our home, life, breeding program and meet our needs for a
working or competitive dog.
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Behavioral Refinement Period
(7-9 weeks)
By 7-8 weeks
puppies have fully functioning brains and are capable of
learning anything, keeping in account their short attention
spans, of course. Most behaviorists agree that this is the best
time for the puppy to go to its new home, unless the breeder is
equipped with the time and help to treat each puppy as an
individual - including crate training, housebreaking, separation
from its mother and littermates for extended periods of time and
extensive socialization. Puppies go through many, many changes
during this time, bonding with their owners and learning to
survive. New owners and inexperienced breeders with puppies at
this age must realize how important this time is to teach
puppies boundaries and the rules of their new life. Emphasizing
the importance of socialization and the special nutritional and
health cares needs of a young puppy is crucial as this is a
period in the puppy's life when they are more likely to avoid
new things and fear unfamiliar places and people.
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Fear Imprint/Impact Period (8-11 weeks)
Between 8 and 9 weeks, overlapping the Behavioral Refinement and
Environmental Awareness Period, the puppy will begin a time of
much more caution. It will be fearful of loud noises, sudden
movement, strangers, discipline from other dogs or humans, etc.
If frightened during this fear period, it may take weeks to
return to normal. Many feel that this is the wrong time for ear
cropping, traumatic visits to the vet, shipping, harsh
discipline, and maybe even transfers to new homes, especially
those less experienced. The puppies should be exposed to lots of
positive experiences at this time. Some breeders will keep a
litter of puppies through this fear imprint stage to ensure that
the puppy has the right experiences at this important time. This
decision may also allow the breeder more time to make decisions
about which puppy belongs in which home, based on behavioral
development and/or conformational changes during this time.
Puppies begin and end this stage at different ages. Unlike most
other stages, the onset can be very sudden. Some puppies pass
through this stage very quickly and others take longer, based on
a combination of genetics, socialization and the experience of
the owner or breeder in handling the puppy.
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Environmental Awareness
Period (9-12 weeks)
Puppies still have short
attention spans at this age, but start to learn right behaviors
for the right time, have big improvements in motor skills, pay
more attention to its human(s), and are very busy learning about
their new world. If left with their littermates at this age,
they will bond with them instead of their owner. Depending on
what the owner expects from the puppy, behavior can be shaped
very differently during this time. |
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If primarily
kept with the other dogs in the household, the puppy will learn
better doggie social skills but may have less interest in
spending time with its human. A careful compromise is probably
the best answer for most puppies. Research by Konrad Lorenz and
others show that attempts to change social behavior learned
during this critical period are rarely successful. Puppies left
with littermates through this time often have problems with
excessive barking, separation anxiety and/or hyperexcitability.
And conversely, dogs without proper dog-dog relationships
(including plenty of play fighting) loose their ability to play
with unfamiliar dogs and become serious about defending
themselves by the age of 11-17 weeks. |
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Seniority Classification Period (13-16 weeks)
One behaviorist
labeled this the "Age of Cutting" - cutting teeth and cutting
apron strings; and other refer to it as the Age of Independence.
The puppy begins to test dominance and leadership and "temper
tantrums" are common. Puppies that have been previously very
compliant will begin to have an opinion of their own and may be
willing to "fight" to defend that opinion. Many puppies will
bite for the first time in an attempt to do what it wants or to
resist restraint. Now is the time when the various "schools" of
dog training will really differ in how to handle the puppy.
Traditionalists and believers of "pack behavior" will do alpha
rollers and other dominance exercises to impress on the puppy
its place in the "pack". Clicker trainers and others will use
operant and classical conditioning to "shape" appropriate
behaviors. Without contrasting the pros and cons of these
different training approaches, most will agree that this is a
critical period of learning for the puppy. If allowed to bite,
dominate children or other pets, or resist unwanted human
actions (nail cutting, lying on side to be groomed, leash
training, vet exams, ear care, taking away of possessions or
food, etc) , the prospects for having a well behaved dog in the
upcoming months will be poor.
Even with milder tempered puppies, the next
period of time - puberty- the dog will challenge its owner, it
will have adult teeth and weigh up to 90 pounds.This is also the
time when attending Puppy Classes is essential. Even if the
owner is an experienced dog trainer, the puppy needs exposure to
other puppies of other breeds, sizes and temperament; needs to
learn the difference between play and work, and needs to be
handled, trained and disciplined by a variety of other people.
This helps build self-confidence is an environment with lots of
distractions; and can begin exposure to agility and other
play/training equipment. An experienced instructor can help
identify and prevent potential problems.
The right age to start Puppy Classes is
controversial. Some vets want puppies to finish their
vaccination series to prevent the risk of disease (especially
parvo virus), but the experienced breeder/owner knows that the
potential risks from late or inadequate socialization is just as
bad as that of risk of disease. A compromise between these two
concerns can be made by limiting exposure to only
well-vaccinated healthy dogs, being careful where the puppy is
walked, etc. Be sure to observe potential Puppy classes before
enrolling to check out the cleanliness of the facilities, health
requirements and training methods. Choose the training methods
you (and the breeder) are comfortable with and be sure the
instructors are experienced with large working breeds, the class
includes well supervised puppy play and that the puppies in the
class are having fun as well as being guided into appropriate
behaviors. Most behaviorists/trainers believe that the end of
this period (14-16 weeks) is also the closing of the "window" of
effective socialization, so waiting until the puppy is 6 months
old for class may be too late.
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Flight Instinct Period (4-8
months)
This period can
last for a few days or several weeks. The puppy's first response
is to flee. A puppy that previously came every time you called
will now "turn a deaf ear" and be very difficult to catch. It's
important to avoid off-leash time and to praise correct
responses. Some people refer to this time as the "ha-ha-ha, you
can't catch me" time. Use of a long line during this time will
prevent accidents and actually shorten the length of time the
puppy behaves in this manner.
Second Fear Impact Period
(6-14 months)
A very well
socialized puppy who has been meeting and greeting the world in
an outgoing happy manner will almost overnight start to fear
people and things that it wouldn't have even noticed before.
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This period usually corresponds to growth spurts and
unfortunately, often corresponds with a puppy's first dog shows.
It's still time to socialize, socialize, and socialize some
more- allowing the puppy to work things out while building
self-confidence. Be sure to never console a puppy who is afraid
or mildly injured; make light of the fear; introduce lots of
play behavior and praise; reinforce basic obedience and
attention training; and increase exercise. One behaviorist
characterizes this period as "the dog's anticipating harmful
situations that exist only in its mind with subsequent
behavioral strategies that include defense mechanisms of flight,
aggression and low inhibition."
Adolescence also coincides with this fear period
with accompanying hormone surges, increased excitability,
intensity about everything and the challenging of authority once
again. Pheromones emitted by a dog can trigger dominance from
other dogs, which can be very traumatic to a dog at this time.
Males start to lift their leg to urinate at 5-12 months,
depending on several factors including their ability to imitate
another male. They develop great interest in females and can
develop objectionable behaviors such as marking territory,
mounting or humping, desire to roam or fighting with other dogs.
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Maturity Period (1-4 years)
The transition
between puppyhood and adulthood is characterized by continual
growth, both physical and mental, for 2 to 3 years in large
breeds of dogs, especially not neutered males. Your Briard will
go from an Ugly Duckling at one (leggy, thin, out of proportion,
soft coat, adolescent behavior) to a Beautiful Swan, with adult
coat and color, correct proportions, mature body, and more
stable behavior and temperament. But regular socialization must
continue throughout these years. Females come into season and
the male's sexual interest continues to increase. Aggression and
testing for leadership may also increase, especially in those
dogs less socialized and trained in earlier months.
Protectiveness increases dramatically and its imperative that
the dog is taught to discriminate fears and threats.
In summary, the development of a great dog is the
joint responsibility of the breeder and the new owner. A mature
dog's personality, physical appearance and working ability is a
combination of breed characteristics, individual genetic makeup
and the socialization and training it receives. Understanding
the social and behavioral development of a canine can help both
breeders and owners prevent problems and "create" the best
Briard possible, whether a performance star, a beautiful show
dog, a wonderful companion, a working shepherd dog, or the great
parent for the next generations of our breed.
Bibliography
Battaglia, Carmen. Early Neurological
Stimulation.
Booth, Sheila. Positive Puppy Preview. Audio tape
Clothier, Suzanne. Understanding Puppy Testing
Fox, Dr Michael. Understanding the Dog
Matznick, Janice. Guide to Hand Raising Puppies.
Patterson, Gary. "Social Behavior" www.siriusdog.com/social_behavior.htm
Pfaffenberger, Charles. The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior.
Scott & Fuller. Dog Behavior- The Genetics Basics.
Originally published
in the Dewclaw (Summer2002).
Copyright 2006 Kathryn Lanam. May not be reprinted or used in
its entirety or any part without the express permission of the
author.
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Getting Peak
performance out of your briard |
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by Kathryn Lanam
Originally published in the BCA Dewclaw - Summer 2001
Winner of the 2001 Dog Writer's Association Award -
Best Article for a National Breed
Magazine
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So you want your Briard to be healthy for a long
time? Are you showing your Briard in conformation, herding,
agility, obedience or one of the many other canine sports?
Do you like the thrill of competing, knowing that
you and your Briard are a happy team? If so, you need to know
about conditioning your Briard. Be it for the conformation ring
or for a performance event, training for and practicing the
event are just parts of preparing for the competition. You and
your canine athlete must also be physically prepared through
proper exercise, nutrition, and health care.
“Behind-the-scenes” preparation is the real key
to success in any event. Christine Zink, in her award-winning
book, Peak Performance -Coaching the Canine Athlete, calls us
the dog’s coach and states that “the winning coach must be a
combination of talent scout, sports medicine specialist, problem
preventer/solver, physical therapist, trainer, and friend.” In
her book, Born to Win, Patricia Craige tells the story of one of
her early mentors, Mrs. Thomas Blair, a well known cocker
spaniel breeder. Mrs. Blair advised Pat that “although she
couldn’t control whether she had the best dog at the show, she
certainly could control whether or not she had the best
conditioned dog at the show.”
Athletic events place physical demands on your
Briard’s body. Herding, agility, obedience, and even
conformation are physical as well as mental challenges for your
Briard. His success depends BOTH on his genetically determined
structure and on his physical fitness. Except through proper
breeding and careful selection, you can’t control his basic
structure, movement, and breed type, but training and
conditioning can overcome many structural problems and allow
even a dog less than ideal to excel. None of us have the perfect
dog, but what we do to maximize the positives and minimize the
dog’s defects makes the difference. |
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Benefits of Conditioning
There are many
benefits from a good conditioning program: weight-control,
weight loss, physical strength, physical stamina, channeling
energy, and emotional well-being. Important to all dogs, regular
exercise will help keep your dog from becoming overweight. Or,
if the pounds have already found a resting-place somewhere on
your Briard’s body, regular exercise will help him to loose
excess weight. In addition to keeping your dog slim and trim,
regular exercise raises the metabolism, allowing the dog to eat
more food each day - a psychological benefit for the dog. Dogs
on a diet are often unhappy dogs.
Conditioning prepares dogs for specific physical
activities - trot all day with the flock, gallop faster and jump
better for agility, etc. Conditioning builds strength so that a
dog can accelerate rapidly, change directions, and overcome
inertia.
Conditioning builds stamina so that a dog can
maintain speed, climb obstacles, and work all day. Plus,
conditioning improves a dogs timing, balance, and coordination.
Medical research in humans has shown that there
are multifaceted physiological benefits from regular exercise.
Cardiovascular, respiratory, and nervous systems are improved as
a result of regular exercise. Through regular exercise, the
blood is better oxygenated, organ resistance to disease is
improved and endorphins are released in the brain creating a
feeling of euphoria and overall well being. This type of
research is in its early stages in dogs, but there’s no reason
to believe that the benefits of regular exercise experienced by
humans would not also be experienced by dogs.
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In addition, according to Christine Zink, proper
levels of exercise in dogs help prevent development of harmful
behaviors, like lick granulomas, destructive chewing,
restlessness, and barking (and probably that aggravating Briard
habit of fur chewing). A fit dog is also best able to resist
fatigue at shows and trials. According to Dr Gillette of Auburn
University’s Department of Sports Medicine for dogs, “The minute
that fatigue sets in, it will begin to decrease the level of
performance. Energy and focus is diverted away from the activity
and utilized by the body to maintain basic functions.”
Tired dogs are most prone to accidents and
injury. Dogs that don’t like to show or quit in the middle of a
performance are often exhibiting fatigue. Pat Craige says,
“because a dog didn’t feel good while performing, the dog is
discouraged from trying as hard the next time.” Conditioning can
minimize the effects of fatigue and allow the dog to perform
well under all conditions and environments. “He has the reserve
that can be called upon when the going gets tough,” Craige
continues. The fit animal is still working and has a better
attitude than his tired competitors.
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Something can be said about
a breakdown in the human-dog bond too when we ask the dog to
perform in a way or for such a time that the dog isn’t prepared
for.
Making a Plan
Your
conditioning plan should be unique for your dog depending on his
energy level, the activities he competes in, his medical
condition, his body type and his current level of fitness. The
intensity, duration and frequency of exercise, as well as the
type of exercise must fit the needs of your individual dog and
your goal for him. There is no rulebook. The ideal conditioning
program should include more than one kind of exercise to work
the different groups of muscles. Activities that maintain the
dog’s (and handler’s) interest should be chosen as well as
activities that aid in the progress of your performance goals.
Christine Zink recommends what she calls
“interval training.” In interval training the intensity of
training/conditioning is varied. The dog’s performance should
peak during important events or group of events. “Staleness” and
training setbacks can be prevented in this way. Varying the
method, intensity, frequency, duration, and location of the
exercise will keep the dog interested. Mental conditioning can
be improved with frequent play periods and changes in routine.
Methods of Conditioning
There are many
methods you can use to condition your dog. They vary in
difficulty (for you) and in cost. Pat Hastings in her book,
Tricks of the Trade, recommends just letting a dog run in a
large area on a regular basis, so that the dog uses all his
muscles, twists and turns, goes at all speeds - a sort of
cross-training. The cost of this method is essentially nothing.
The difficulties associated with this method are access,
effectiveness, weather, and travel. Not all of us have access to
large, fenced fields. In some parts of the country, hot and/or
cold weather may prohibit exercising outside during certain
seasons of the year. Plus, some dogs don’t self-exercise well.
Pat Craige says you can give the dog a three-acre yard to run
in, but it might just become a “three-acre place to sleep in.”
For show dogs who are on the road a lot for
shows, trials, or vacations, other forms of exercise are
necessary. Probably the method of least difficulty for you is to
get your Briard to do something that you already do. If you jog,
have your Briard go with you (hopefully trained so he doesn’t
pull you around the block). If you are into cross-country
skiing, skijoring, sledding or draft work, get your Briard to do
it with you. However, if you are into sitting on the couch you
are going to have to think of something else.
Swimming is an excellent form of exercise,
especially for dogs with hip dysplasia or other musculoskeletal
problems. Since swimming is a non-weight bearing exercise, it is
easy on (less strain/stress) on bones, joints and ligaments.
Retrieving, chasing ducks in the water, following a rowboat, or
laps in a pool can contribute to excellent condition. One Briard
breeder actually has a special indoor pool that creates varying
strengths of waves for the dogs to swim against. This is one of
the more expensive options. You may have difficulty finding
access to clean, safe water for swimming. You may also find that
frigid weather and/or ice limits year-round exercise in your
part of the country.
Briard coats pose an additional problem. Most
Briards can’t swim without considerable grooming immediately
afterwards to prevent matting or to remove coat damaging salt,
mud, and sand. If you have a veteran dog or a dysplastic Briard,
you might consider a short haircut for him so that non-stressful
exercise (like swimming) can be continued throughout his life.
Some dog owners now use mechanical treadmills, such as the
Jog-a-Dog© to exercise show or performance dogs. Treadmills work
well for dogs in very cold or very hot climates where exercising
outside is difficult. They also work well for handlers with a
large number of dogs to exercise. Several dogs can be exercised
in a relatively short period of time in a climate-controlled
area. Unfortunately, treadmills are expensive, take up a lot of
space, can be boring to use for both the trainer and the dog,
can create a less free, natural movement, and some dogs just
won’t use them.
Bicycling is probably one of the most common
forms of conditioning used by trainers, handlers, and other
enthusiasts. Most people are physically able to ride a bicycle,
and most Briards can be trained to run along side a bicycle. If
you choose this form of exercise, you may have to drive to a
safe bike path or untraveled road or large parking lot. Several
Briarders who bicycle with their dogs recommend the use of a
Springer© - a bike attachment with a strong spring that prevents
the dog from pulling the bike over (see squirrel, see biker
“fly”). The Springer© leaves the biker’s hands free to steer; it
has a quick release in case the dog runs around something, and
it keeps the dog a safe distance from the bike’s wheels, pedals
and handlebars. Depending on the terrain and fitness of the
biker, a multi-speed bike is usually needed to maintain the
correct speed for long distances.
If you are more comfortable in a vehicle larger
than a bicycle, I have known of people who exercise their
Briards using their riding lawn mowers, golf carts, and small
motor bikes. Cars and vans are also used. This method has the
advantage of speed and convenience, but it takes two people.
Using an untraveled road or empty parking lot (a warehouse area
that is closed in the early morning or evening is great), one
person drives and the other person sits in the back of the open
vehicle (tailgate or hatch open) and holds the dog’s leash. If
you are the person holding the dog’s leash, your legs can be
held out straight on either side of the dog to help keep the dog
running straight and prevent pacing. Be sure to keep the dog
away from the exhaust pipe and fumes. With the help of a pole
connected to the leash to keep the head straight, the side door
of a van can also be used. With trained dogs, more than one dog
can be exercised at one time (if you have a lot of dogs to
exercise). Well-trained dogs can even be worked by one person,
running along side the driver’s window. Of course, the vehicle
can only be turned in a right hand circle and care must be taken
to keep the dog back out of the way of the front tire. A pinch
collar may be necessary to easily control an overly enthusiastic
runner. (I still haven’t figured out how to attach the Springer©
to the side of the car <g>).
Before using any road, path or parking lot for
exercising a dog, be sure to check carefully for broken glass,
holes, or other objects that might cut or cause the dog to
stumble. Stepping in a hole while moving at a fast pace is a
very common cause of injury, including career ending ACL
ruptures.
Before You Start
No matter what type of exercise you
chose for your dog (and yourself), some planning should take
place before you start. Your dog should have a complete checkup
by your veterinarian to rule out medical problems that may limit
the type or amount of exercise your dog can do. (It might be a
good idea for you too). Recent hip and elbow x-rays are
necessary to rule out dysplasia and other skeletal problems that
can be aggravated by some types of exercise. An older dog who
has not had x-rays in two or three years should be re-checked -
things can change over time or as a result of previous injuries.
All young dogs should be x-rayed before starting an exercise
program, even if the dog is not old enough to OFA.
A puppy should not be force exercised until his
growth plates (part of the bone where the bone lengthens) are
completely closed - usually by 14 months in large breeds. The
growth plates can be x-rayed at the same time the hips and
elbows are x-rayed if there is any question. Exercise for an
adolescent dog (14-24 months) should increase very gradually to
give him time to adapt to his changing body and to develop good
coordination. A young dog should not be jumped higher than 3/4
of his height at the withers before he is 18-20 months old. I
have seen cases where irreparable damage has been done to a
young dog by his owner who thought he was doing the right thing
by jogging long distances with his dog. A young dog is much more
prone to injury because of his immature bones and muscles, his
lack of coordination, and his “teenage” brain.
Correct toenail length is also essential for a
working dog. Long toenails continually push into a dog’s toes,
causing his foot to roll over or rock back to compensate.
Painful movement really affects a dog’s attitude about work.
Plus, permanent ligament and tendon damage to the toes, pasterns
and shoulders, can be caused by long toenails. Take the time to
shorten the nails (gradually if necessary) before starting any
road work. Also check your Briard’s feet for cuts, excessive
dirt, mats, or other foreign material. Long hair on the bottom
of his feet should be trimmed. His pads provide traction for his
foot, and long hair on the bottom of the foot retains moisture
and dirt which can contribute to fungal and other infections
between the pads and toes. (I know a Briard who actually tripped
over his untrimmed foot hair and fell off the dog walk at an
agility trial. The owner was not only worried about the dog but
was very embarrassed too). Many people use moisturizing and/or
toughening products on the pads to keep them flexible, elastic
and to prevent cracking. Vasoline or similar products can be
applied to prevent ice balls and snow buildup in the winter.
Here are a couple of other things to think about
before you start your Briard conditioning program. As
homeopathic and alternative medicines have grown in popularity,
some people give their dogs supplements, such as Vitamins E and
C, glucosamine, chondroitin, shark cartilage, MSM, DMG and
SAM-e. These supplements help keep the joints lubricated and aid
in the repair and replacement of damaged cartilage. Acupuncture,
acupressure, and chiropractic procedures are also becoming very
common in dogs.
You may need to change you dog’s diet.
Controversy exists over whether a working dog (other than a sled
dog that runs many, many hours each day) needs changes to his
normal diet. Some Briards will need additional calories to
maintain an ideal weight, although once your Briard starts
exercising he may tend to eat more. You should weigh your Briard
regularly to keep track of his weight. Weight loss or gain is
harder to detect on a coated breed. Your feeding schedule will
probably need to be adapted once you start your conditioning
program. Don’t feed for 4 hours before exercising and for at
least one hour after your dog has completely cooled down.
Warmup prior to exercise is very important. It
opens up blood vessels for better blood supply to the muscles
and nerves. Stretching exercises to help prevent ligament and
tendon injury, to loosen muscles and to line up the bones and
joints are essential. According to research cited in Christine
Zink’s book, “muscular contraction is improved 20% by increasing
the body temperature by 2 degrees F.” |
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The reverse is also true - muscle contractions
decrease significantly in the cold. In studies of humans, 70% of
people who exercised without a warm-up developed abnormalities
in the electrical signals to their hearts. Various massage
techniques (be sure to attend the Canine Massage seminar at the
National this year) can aid proper warm up.
Stretching exercises can be used. Agility folks
have adopted a wide range of exercises for limbering up their
dogs before running. Your dog can be taught to play bow and to
stretch by standing up on his hind legs and pushing on your
chest or shoulders. Another stretching exercise is to have your
dog weave in and out of your legs to flex his back muscles. At
agility events, handlers are allowed to use a practice jump to
warm up a dog. |
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Let’s Run!
During exercise, watch for changes in your dog’s movement and
attitude. There is probably a good reason if your dog doesn’t
want to exercise or he changes his style. Your dog may have a
sore back, sore pads (or sore toes from long toenails), a
general medical problem, or a mild lameness. Discontinue the
exercise if your dog is hurting, even if just a little bit.
Altered movement created by pain puts altered forces on the rest
of the body, which leads to secondary (or tertiary) problems. At
some point in this chain of events, breakdown occurs and a major
injury results.
Also be alert for heat exhaustion or extreme
fatigue. Head bobbing, pacing, excessive panting, a rounded back
and loss of energy are signals of fatigue, pain, or boredom.
There is no formula to use to determine how long or how fast to
move your dog. Factors, including age, body type, starting
fitness level, angulation, work ethic, and temperament affect
how fast you can increase your dog’s exercise level.
Most roadwork is done at a trot. Trotting builds
the muscles necessary to trot correctly, teaches the dog balance
and good “foot-timing” (a hard to describe quality that involves
reflexes and the rhythmic way that a dog trots). Trotting can be
done for long distances and is used by conformation dogs and
herding dogs. Galloping develops different muscles and develops
strength for jumping and the fast sprints needed in agility and
flyball. Many trainers recommend some galloping for show dogs to
strengthen back muscles and improve the topline. Trotting up
gradual hills helps develop the rear and trotting downhill will
help stretch the front and increase reach.
When a dog is in good condition, “wind sprints”
(very fast trots or gallops) for short distances can be done.
You need to teach your dog a word to accompany this
encouragement of additional speed because it can really help at
a critical moment on the agility field, when getting to the back
of the flock, or when the dog is tired at the end of a long day.
Your dog will learn to “go that extra mile.” Also, BE SURE YOUR
DOG ISN’T PACING. You really need to be able to easily recognize
a pacing dog before starting road work.
As mentioned earlier, endorphins production can
actually give your dog a “runner’s high,” making the work
pleasurable and something to look forward to again and again. A
rule of thumb for increasing speed or duration is to always quit
while your dog still wants to go. All increases should be
gradual. A healthy dog will probably take 8-10 weeks to build up
optimum fitness. Roadwork should be done every 36-48 hours to
allow the muscles to heal and the dog to rest. Skill training or
easier exercise can be done on the off days. A day off before a
big event will help prepare the dog for it’s best effort,
physically and mentally.
No book or journal article describes a typical
running program for a dog. Remembering that each dog is
different, start at 6-7 mph for 1/4-1/2 mile, depending on the
present fitness of your dog. Working every other day, increase
the distance by 1/4 mile each week. By the time your dog has run
for 1 mile for a week, you may have to increase the speed to
9-10 mph, depending on the size and length of stride of your
dog. Some dogs may have to start out faster in order to control
enthusiasm and then you can drop down to a comfortable working
speed. You seldom will have to work past 2 1/2 -3 miles to get
your dog into great shape. (I once built up a larger, very long-strided
Briard to 5 miles at 12-13 mph and actually felt he became
over-conditioned - his enthusiasm was boundless and no handler
could run that fast in the ring.) All of this sounds like a lot
of work and a big time commitment, but it really only takes
10-15 minutes every other day, depending on how far you have to
drive to run.
Cooling Down
Just as
important as the warm up time is the cool down time. According
to Christine Zink, “if vigorous exercise is stopped suddenly,
the blood will pool in the legs because the vessels have opened
up to allow maximum circulation to the muscles there” depriving
the other organs of readily available blood. The dog should be
walked slowly. Cool down massages can also be used to aid in
rapid muscle repair and return heart rate to normal levels. Very
small amounts of water can be given periodically during cool
down. The techniques used by human runners can also help,
including monitoring of pulse levels. You should check your
dog’s feet carefully for torn pads, cuts, tar, ice balls or
other problems. In very cold weather, you should blanket your
dog to prevent rapid loss of heat and muscle stiffness.
In Conclusion
Unless your dog
is in peak condition, he won’t perform his best. If your dog is
overweight, easily tired out, won’t work in the heat (or the
rain or the...), doesn’t enjoy an activity at the higher levels
of competition, lacks enthusiasm, doesn’t train well or quits
when things get tough, he probably is just out of condition. So
quit being a “weekend warrior” (expecting your dog to perform
just at shows or trials) and get that couch potato off the
couch. Both of you will feel better and have more successes -
whether it’s a few seconds faster in agility, more spirited
heeling in obedience, a dog that can still “catch” the sheep at
the end of the day, a grand performance in the Best in Show
ring, or just a healthy, active old Briard. The many benefits of
a conditioning program are worth the time.
Copyright 2006 Kathryn Lanam. May not be reprinted or used in
its entirety or any part without the express permission of the
author.
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Puppy Sales Agreements |
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by
Kathryn Lanam
A contract, in addition to being a legal Bill of
Sale for your purchase, spells out the expectations of the
breeder for the puppy you are buying and should also spell out
the expectations you have for your puppy.
A Breeder cannot keep all of the puppies that
she/he produces and has to make important decisions about the
placement of each puppy at a very young age. A well bred puppy
is the result of careful planning, intense research and
knowledge of pedigrees (dogs in past generations), and large
amount of time, commitment and money (showing, care, genetic
health checks, etc). It is difficult to simply hand over the
results of this commitment without some promise that the buyer
will appreciate these efforts and continue to do what is best
for the puppy and best for the Briard breed for the lif | |
